Pook Han Monastery. Pook Han is the name of a horseshoe-shaped ridge of mts. about 6 M. north of Seoul; the highest of the peaks is about 3500 ft. above the sea. Some 2000 ft. up from the valley, toward the summit, is a depression somewhat similar to that of Kouya-san. Here stood formerly an extensive group of monasterial edifices (some of which have been burned) where Buddhist monks who had taken monastic vows, uneasy Korean kings, and a few literates lived the lives of recluses. The structures are now deserted save for a few poor (and sometimes greedy) priests. Certain of the Christian missionaries in Seoul go there during the hottest period of summer, and dwell in the tumble-down temples. The spot forms a locally popular all-day excursion from the capital -- of more interest to the antiquarian and to the lover of picturesque and tranquil scenery than to the ordinary tourist in search of thrills. Ladies unused to climbing rocky roads may find the trip fatiguing. Four hrs. should be allowed for the outward journey (which can be planned to the best advantage with the assistance of the hotel manager), and as many for the return -- which can be varied. A guide (3 yen for the day) can be dispensed with if one can get a jinriki coolie who speaks a little English. Rikishas (2 yen for the round trip with 2 men) can go only part way, leaving a walk up to the monastery of about 1 1/2 hr. One man accompanies the traveler and the other goes round the base of the hill to another point, whence the homeward start is made. By starting from the hotel at 8 A.M. and taking it leisurely, the monastery can be reached about noon, where luncheon (best to be taken from the hotel) may be eaten. The situation of the structures, locked in the cool mt. fastnesses of a spur of the great axial range, is charmingly romantic; the edifices themselves are in a lamentable state of decay and are melancholy reminders of better days. Compared to the splendid Buddhistic fans of Japan, these are crudely constructed, and with shabby, impoverished interiors. The now faded frescoes represent the customary mythological dragons and other Buddhist emblems, and are without artistic worth. On a clear day the views from the high points of the hills are magnificent and far-reaching; Chemulpo, 25 M. distant, and the Yellow Sea that stretches beyond it are visible, along with many hundreds of square miles of mt. and valley. The matchless blue of the Korean sky lends a permanent charm. -- It is customary to leave a small offering with the priest; the traveler is fortunate if this subject does not name the fee and make it a fat one.

The Diamond Mountain Monasteries, a celebrated monkish retreat in an isolated position on the Keum-kang Mt., lie in Kang-Won Province, on the E. coast overlooking the Sea of Japan about 100 M. from Seoul. Their approach is guarded by narrow, rocky passages up which the traveler must toil laboriously. The journey at present is attended by so many difficulties that few tourists are willing to brave them. The Seoul-Wonsan (or Gensan) Rly. Line (136 M.) now under construction will grceatly minimize these when completed. There are upward of 50 or more monasteries and monastic shrines, all in a ruinous state and all similar in point of architecture, but greatly inferior in point of beauty, to the allied Buddhist temples of Japan. Some of the ancient buildings are said to date from A.D. 515 -- which is doubtful. Their interiors are shabby and dirty, and the monkish caretakers (upon whom the traveler must depend for food and shelter) have the commercial instinct strongly developed. Trips can be planned with the aid of the hotel manager, who will obtain guides and outfits for the traveler.

According to the latest official reports there are 2000 Buddhist monasteries in Chosen, presided over by 10,000 priests (less than one tenth of the total number in Japan). Thirty of the institutions are recognized officially. There are said to be but two Buddhist sects, the Zen and the Kyou; the latter an offshoot of the Chinese creed and confined exclusively to Korea. Many of the old monasteries are in a deplorable state of neglect and decay -- of greater interest to the antiquarian and the student of Buddhism than to the casual traveler.

47. From Seoul via Ryuuzan and Eitouho to Jinsen (Chemulpo).

25 M. Several trains daily (from the Nandaimon Station; Pl. B, 3, in about 1 hr.); fare 1st cl., Y1.25; 2d cl., 88 sen; 3d cl., 50 sen. Passengers from Fusan may leave the main line north-bound train at Eitouho (Rte. 45), 7 M. S. of Seoul, and await the train there. Cars are marked Jinsen -- the Japanese name for the Chemulpo of the Koreans. The rly. (constructed by Americans in 1899) was the first one built in Koea. The distances are counted from Eitouho.

The line passes out through Ryuuzan, crosses the Han River on the main line bridge, then bears W. and runs toward the Yellow Sea. Cars must be changed at Eitouho Jct. unless one has boarded a through car marked Jinsen. The big building at the right, 1/2 M. beyong Eitouho, is a prison. The train traverses a fairly fertile country where many of the vegetables for the city markets are raised. Low, semi-denuded hills mark the sky-line; many cosmos flowers enliven the scene in summer. The few stations (4 M. Goryuudo, 7 M. Sosha, 11 M. Fuhei, and 14 M. Shuan) are uninteresting. The sea is visible at the left, and near it are vast salt basins operated by the Gov't. 17 M. Chuuken, a suburban station, is nearer to the E. end of Chemulpo (and to the business quarter) than the terminal station a mile farther on. The road from here to the town (jinriki, 15 sen) leads up the hill at the left and passes beneath the big stone arch near the summit; the town is then descried on the slope beyong. The port is rapidly expanding in the direction of Chuuken, and many dwellings now cover the hill-slope; those which crown the summit of the big hill behind which Chemulpo lies, are the homes of foreigners.

18 M. 'Chemulpo, an important and thriving port in Kyong-Kwi Province, on an estuary of the Han River overlooking the Yellow Sea, on the W. coast in lat. 37° 28' 30" N. and long. 126° 37' E. of Greenwich, is known for its fine climate, splendid situation, sheltered harbor, and charming sea views. Until it was open to foreign trade (in 1883) by the treaty with Japan, it was an insignificant fishing-village; to-day upward of 3000 steamships and sailing vessels anchor in its harbor each year, and its annual trade amounts to 25 million yen -- two thirds of which are imports. It is often referred to as the Yokohama of Korea, and the progressiveness of its merchants (the largest importing and exporting house is that of W. D. Townsend, of Boston, U.S.A.) warrants the name. Of the 40,000 inhabs., a third are Japanese, and but a small percentage foreigners. A number of Chinese merchants have hongs here. The best known among these (Steward & Co.) operate the Hotel Steward, where plain food and lodgings are available at Y3 a day. English spoken. -- Jinsen Club Hotel, same rate. Ships of the Osaka Shosen Kaisha (Osaka-Jinsen Line) leave twice a week for (731 M.) Osaka; (fare, Y27), and call at other ports. Those of the Nagasaki-Dairen Line (to Nagasaki, Y17; to Dairen, Y18) call weekly. Passengers are landed free in the company launch. -- Sept. and Oct. are the best months for a visit. Bright frosty weather usually prevails in Jan., with snow at intervals between Sept. and March. Fogs are frequent off the coast from March to July, but are comparatively rare from Oct. to Feb. -- The town rises back up the slope of the hill from the sea, and from the houses perched near the summit superb seascapes are obtained. The British Consulate stands on the crest of the ridge, and hard by is the Chemulpo Club, with British and American members. The island one sees straight out in the bay is Observation Island; between it and the shore the Gov't is making harbor improvements, to cost 4 million yen. Getsubitou Island is 1/2 nautical mile to the W. The Bank of Chosen has a branch here, and there are a number of small shops. The drinking-water (filtered through sand) is supposed to be good, but prudent travelers will boil it before imbibing it. The water-works were installed in 1908, and water is drawn from a point on the Han River3 M. from Seoul (near Tukuson). There are few points of special interest in or near Chemulpo; the International Park is about 1/4 M. east of the rly. station; the Daijinguu Shrine (Shintou, p. ccxiv) 3/4 to the E. The first shot in the Japan-Russia War was fired in Chemulpo Harbor Feb. 8, 1904, when the Japanese fleet of 7 cruises appeared off the entrance and discovered the Russian men-of-war Variag and Korietz anchored therein. The Korietz attempted to escape to Port Arthur, but was intercepted. When advised by the Japanese admiral that if they did not leave the harbor at once they would be attacked at their anchorage, the ships steamed out, but soon crept back riddled and worthless wrecks.