Namhansanseong (literally "South [of the] Han Mountain Fortress") is a park at an elevation of 460m above sea level, about 25km southeast of Seoul. It is located on Namhansan ("South Han Mountain"). It contains fortifications that date to the 17th century, and a number of temples.
[edit] Early history
Tradition connects the site of Namhansanseong with Onjo, founder of Baekje. In 672, a fortress called Chujangseong (書長城) was built on the western edge of Namhansan to protect Silla from Tang China. Later the fortress was renamed Iljangseong (日長城). Goryeo kings kept the fortress in repair as a defensive outpost for Gwangju the nearby provincial capital.
Most of the fortress that exists today dates from the Yi period. The construction was planned Seo, beginning in 1624, when the Manchus were threatening Ming China. In 1636, the Manchus invaded and Injo fled with his court and 13,800 soldiers to Namhansanseong. Here they were well defended and the king enjoyed the protection of a bodyguard comprised of 3000 fighting monks. The Manchus were not able to take the fortress by storm, but after 45 days of siege the food supply inside ran out, and the king was forced to surrender, giving his sons as hostages and shifting allegiance from the Ming. The Samjeondo Monument (三田渡碑) was erected on the southern route from Seoul to Namhansanseong to mark this event.
After the Manchus withdrew, Namhanseong remained untouched until the reign of Sukchong, who enlarged it and added Pongamseong on the northeast corner of the fortress area in 1686. Another annex, Hanbongseong, was built along the ridge east of the fortress in 1693. More work was done in the reign of Yeongjo (1724-76). The grey brick parapets date from 1778, during the reign of Cheongjo.
Seojangdae is where Injo stayed during the Manchu siege of 1636. The building's second story was added in 1751, at which time the pavilion received another name, Mumangnu (無忘樓), meaning "Unforgotten Tower". This name apparently refers to the unforgettable shame of the surrender to the Manchus. The shrine of Chonggyedang dates from the same period, and was constructed in honour of Yi Hoe, who was wrongfully executed for his responsibilities in constructing of the southern part of Namhansanseong.
[edit] Grounds Today
The fortress went unused and slowly crumbled until 1954, when it was designated a national park and a good deal of repair work was done. The fortress area once accommodated nine temples, as well as various command posts and watch towers. Today a single command post, Seojangdae (西將台), and a single original temple, Changgyeongsa, remain. There are other more recent temples on the path up to the south gate and fortress walls. The north, south and east gates have been restored.
A number of less important historical, sites such as Sungnyeoljeon (崇烈殿, erected in 1638) and Chimgwajeong are associated with the ancient Baekje ruler Onjo. Not far from the western wall was the site of Songsu-tap (頌壽塔), a tower with a metal phoenix on top, erected to commemorate President Syngman Rhee's 80th birthday in 1955. When the Rhee government was overthrown in the 1960 Student Revolution, the monument was destroyed.
[edit] Hiking
There are several hiking trails that cut through the mountain and along the wall. One website offers more detailed information here, and there is a map here, in English and also available here, in Korean. There are maps available at the park entrances and at outposts along the way. Additionally, there are signs pointing to notable sites. Depending on one's preferences, it is easy to spend most of the day visiting all the gates and temples. Likewise, it is also possible to spend a short time at the park, owing to the driving course.
If visiting from Namhansanseong Station, the first major structure seen is South Gate, accessible after a steep climb. It is one of the most notable attractions in the park---together with North Gate---but there are a number of temples, gates, and shrines inside the fortress's walls.
[edit] Cheongnyangdang
Cheongnyangdang is a shrine built in honor of Lee Hoe, his wife, and his concubine. Lee was executed for embezzlement, but was posthumously found innocent. However, the two women in his life committed suicide when they heard the news of his death. There were paintings in the main hall to honor these three, but as they were destroyed during the Korean War, replicas now hang in their place.
[edit] Chimawaejong
Legend has it a Baekje palace once stood on the site of this pavillion, and there is some evidence that an armory was nearby [1].
[edit] Gaewonsa
This temple was built early in the fortress's history, and was originally used as a command post for fighting monks. It was rebuilt in 1976.
There are four gates---North, South, East, and West---one for each direction. To walk along the circumference of the wall and reach all four gates is about 8 kilometers, and takes a little over 3 hours.
[edit] Haenggung
This is a temporary palace that was used by the king during his visits.
[edit] Hyeonjeolsa
At this site 3 patriots held out against Manchurian invaders in the 17th century. They were eventually captured and executed, and in 1688 this shrine was built in their honor. Eleven years later two more tombs were added to honor their allies.
[edit] Janggyeongsa
Janggyeongsa is located on Mangwolbong (Mangol Peak), some 360 meters high. It is about 350 meters away from the East Gate, but because of its altitude it can be easily seen while walking east along the wall from the South Gate. It is the only temple in Namhansanseong to have retained its original appearance, and it is designated Gyeonggi-do Cultural Property no. 15.
[edit] Jisudang
This red pavillion is Gyeonggi Cultural Property no. 14, and was once a fishing ground for high-ranking officials. Reportedly three ponds once surrounded the pavillion, but only two remain today.
[edit] Mangwolsa
This temple was rebuilt in 1990, although it reportedly has the longest history of any inside the fortress [2].
[edit] Sueojangdae
This is a three-story command post that once offered views of the surrounding cities and towns. Originally a single-story building, two more floors were added in 1751. The post was rebuilt in 1898 [3].
[edit] Sungyeolijeon
Sungyeolijeon is a shrine dedicated to the first king of Baekje, King Onjo. It also memorializes Lee Seo, a bureaucrat honored for his bravery during the Manchurian invasions.
[edit] Yeonmugwan
This martial arts training hall dates to 1624.
[edit] Getting There
- By subway: The park is a twenty-minute walk from exit 2 of Namhansanseong Station.
- By bus: Take city bus no 9 to Namhansanseong
Admission is 1,000 won for adults.
[edit] External Links
